Step 2- Profiling the Knife Steel

Now that we have our components selected, the first thing we must do is shape the blade steel into the profile of the knife. We do this using the stock removal method. In this case we are using CPM154 stainless steel to make the knife. (Other knifes featured later in this overview are featured in CPM154 as well as 440C.) 

Most of our high performance steel is shipped to us in six-foot lengths, and are what is called mill-ground. It is not precision ground – we take care of grinding that ourselves as you will see later. The steel is soft at this point, meaning it has not been heat treated/hardened yet. This allows us to cut, grind, file, and drill the steel. 

A piece of steel in the length needed to make the model is cut by a horizontal bandsaw. We then spray or brush-on a blue layout dye on the surface of the steel. 

Once dry, we clamp a template to the steel. The template is made of steel and we have one that corresponds to each model of knife. We also create them for one of a kind custom knives, which allows us to experiment on softer, thinner, and easier to grind steel until we get the pattern just the way we want it. Sometimes we go through half a dozen templates or more before we get things just right. 

We then use a scribe to trace around the template. This leaves a nice thin silver line in the blue dye that is easy to see while working the steel. 

The particular warthog model we are working with here features a small "Spanish notch". This is basically a small half circle or similar, on the bottom of the knife where the sharpened part of the blade begins. We make this simply by drilling a hole along the scribed line marking the bottom edge of the blade. 

We often get asked how we cut raw steel into the shape of the knife we are making. The short answer is, "We don't". Instead, they are ground into the desired shape. So, let's take a look at how we do that. We use 2"x72" belt grinders – meaning the grinding belt is 2 inches wide and 72 inches in length. These are great machines, with belt speeds of up to 7000 feet per minute – that translates into about 80 miles per hour - so we have to be quite careful! For those who are interested, we use a series of Burr King grinders. All are 2x72" with variable speed controllers. The grinder is the main tool used by knife makers and we tend to be opinionated as to the brands and types we use. The main reason we use Burr King knife grinders is that they are reliable, and the company has provided us with nothing but outstanding customer service and support. The only downside is price – but given how much we use them, it is more than worth it. That great service is the reason we continue to buy from them. We currently have three of their grinders and recently added a new variable speed buffer from them as well. We have both 8" and 10" grinders, and configure each of our grinders differently. For example, one is setup for basic grinding functions and hollow grinding, one is for small interior radius work, and the third with a knife maker configuration which raises the platen and also provides for a couple of medium radius'.

Keeping multiple grinders in various configurations allows us to proceed from one function to the next with having to change setups thereby saving time and money. We use different abrasive belts for different functions as well. They can be rather expensive, and we go through lots of them. We have lots of belts on our belt racks and hundreds more in storage waiting to go at all times. 

We start grinding with a coarse belt, usually a 80, 50 or 36 grit abrasive. In the right hands, this makes short order of grinding out the rough shape of the knife blade. We dip the blade in water frequently to keep it from scorching our fingers. 

Once the basic profile has been ground we will switch to progressively less aggressive belts to smooth out the edges. We don't go too fine on all edges, as they will need to be touched up again after the heat-treating process. It should be noted that while grinding, we always wear eye protection as well as a very fine particulate respirator. Grinding is dirty business and we try to take all precautions to stay safe. In addition, we have two dust collectors that are ducted to our grinders. Last, we have a two stage hanging particulate filter that helps remove any suspended dust in the air. 

Next it is time to switch grinders. We now use a grinder setup with a small radius attachment. Here we use the small radius grinder to grind the inside curves of the handle. We have about a half-dozen interchangeable wheels for this grinder to match the type of radius we want to make. As before, we start with more aggressive grits, progressing to a finer finish.